Chiemsee

Since Monday was a holiday, Pentecost or Pfingsten auf Deutsch, we spent the long weekend biking, about 60 km, around the Chiemsee. On Saturday, we biked from Prien, an upscale resort town on the west side of the lake, to Chieming, a smaller town on the east side. We followed the northern route, which we read was the more scenic route, and it was. We spent the night in a very nice, and large, holiday apartment in Chieming and on Sunday followed the southern route, part of which runs along the highway, back to Prien. There was no shortage of restaurants along the way, and we ate at one place on the northern route, Schalchenhof, that was exceptionally good and had a great view of the lake.


Before the trip, I was a little worried about the boys being able to bike 30 km a day, but they were great! They were tired but didn't complain. They actually enjoyed it, and Alex now wants to bike the Bodensee (Lake Constance), about 300 km around.

Super Al

Here's Alex holding up a one ton train part.


And, as promised, Alex riding, here on Flöcke (Snowflake).

American Marshmallows

For the last 3.5 years we've been buying Rocky Mountain marshmallows for Philip, who likes to roast them, and of course, they're made in the USA, because who else would make them. What I noticed only recently was that they are made in Elk Grove Village, IL. Home, sweet home, Chicagoland!

Alex's First Communion

On April 18, 2010, Alex, like Philip, made his first communion. And like Philip, he spent many hours in after-school classes preparing for this big day. But the best part was having his grandparents fly in to celebrate. (They flew into Frankfurt one day before all the airports in Europe closed because of Eyjafjallajökull.)

Ski Happy

Just like every year during spring break, we returned to Radstadt and Obertauern, Austria, for skiing and hiking. One of the highlights from this year's trip was skiing a Schwarz Piste (black diamond ski run in the US). It was the first time for the boys, and my first time since before Philip was born. There weren't a lot of moguls, but it was steep.


Both boys had orange helmets, so they were easy to follow. Philip was a little more cautious than Alex, and therefore, closer to Bob when he took the photo. Alex is closer to the bottom of the hill.


The boys also discovered something new to eat--the Germknödel. The Germknödel is a large ball of sweet dough filled with plum jam and covered with vanilla sauce, powdered sugar and poppy seeds. The boys each ate one everyday of our holiday. The best place for Germknödel was the Heu Stadl (hay barn?) in Obertauern, where the music, played loudly, was a mixture of local folk, yodeling and variations of popular songs, such as Bobby McFerrin's "Don't Worry." In the Heu Stadl version it's "Don't Worry, Ski Happy," but in German, ski is pronounced "shē," so "Don't Worry, Shē Happy."


We also did some hiking, through the forest, up a steep hill to the Bürgerbergalm. Hiking in Europe is very different than in the US. If you want solitude, the US is much better. But if you like the convenience of a warm meal and a beer in the middle of a forest or on top of a mountain, than Europe is the place to be. In Europe, the hiking trails are sprinkled with Hütten, which are cabins with a restaurant and sometimes rooms for overnight. The Bürgerbergalm, overlooking Radstadt, is a small Hütte with a restaurant only. The food was great and cheap, and we met the family that runs it. The daughter told us to come back in January or February, when there's lots of snow, so that we can go sledding down the access road to Radstadt. "At night it's better, because than you can see the cars coming."

Bob suggested that we try someplace new to ski next year, but I think I like having a "second home" in Radstadt.

NOTE: Oscar, as always, traveled with us--click on the link to his blog.

Easter Sunday

I'm sitting in my kitchen looking out the window onto the playground, and Alex is currently digging a hole in the sand with Timo, Philip is playing ping-pong with Jan on inline-skates, and Jan's sister just rode up on her unicycle.

Blatant Bragging

Alex scored two back-to-back beautiful goals in Sunday's handball tournament. He's scored before but never with this much style. He jumped before reaching the goal perimeter line, flew through the air, and threw the ball before landing in the goal area. And he did this twice. Both of his coaches congratulated him on his magnificent goals, and German coaches are not quick to compliment. I hate this word--awesome--but it seems appropriate here.

Wanderung

Yesterday the temperature was 3 degrees Celsius, or about 37 degrees Fahrenheit. The snow is definitely melting, but in the forest it's still pretty icy. In my opinion, not a good day for a long walk in the woods. But it was the perfect day for a Wanderung, or hike, for many Germans. I was surprised to see so many people in the Wald by our apartment. I had to take Oscar out and was planning a quick walk, but it turned out to be a longer walk because so many people in the forest meant more people stopping to pet Oscar (have I ever mentioned that Germans love dogs?).

And many of these Wanderer were elderly. It never ceases to amaze me how many seniors in Germany are out and about walking or riding their bikes. In Chicago, I saw our elderly neighbors only in the summer and only in their yards. Here, I see them slowing shuffling to the bus stop or grocery store or with their walking sticks on long hikes through the hills. There are even a couple who look to be about ninety with osteoporosis still riding their bikes.

This is probably why the German government gives monetary benefits (Kindergeld) to people with children. We get 328 Euros every month for the two boys, and all we did was fill out some papers. It's like getting free money. But Germany has a decreasing growth rate and an increasing number of pensioners (mandatory retirement is at 65 or 67). Obviously, they have to give incentives to people to have kids in order for the social safety net to continue working.

They may want to consider increasing the Kindergeld, because the old folks around here look very fit. And balanced--I was the one slipping on the ice yesterday, not them.

Starbucks, Erlangen

I almost walked into Erlangen's one and only Starbucks. I should add "brand new;" they opened shortly before Christmas.

And I almost walked in after going without having a Starbucks coffee for three and a half years. This was not due to lack of opportunities--Nürnberg has two that I know of, and we've seen many throughout Europe. I've just never really liked their coffee. I've always thought it tasted as if it had been overcooked and sitting in the pot all day.

I also feel some animosity toward Starbucks. Before they invaded Chicago, there were many small, independent cafes, each with its own unique atmosphere. And let's face it, if you've been in one Starbucks, you've been in them all. They, along with Seattle's Best and Caribou Coffee, drove many of these cafes out of business. In some cases directly, like when Starbucks took over Scenes Cafe on Clark and Belmont.

But I almost walked in today. Maybe their coffee is better here. And I doubt they'll close down any indigenous cafes--cafes are ubiquitous in Europe, like hot dog stands in Chicago. But as in The Exterminating Angel, I couldn't make myself cross that threshold.

My Little Cowboy

Before Christmas, Alex decided he wanted to try horseback riding, actually pony riding. So I signed him up for a class at the stable where I ride. I was so sure he wouldn't like it. My teacher expects her horses and ponies to be cleaned spotlessly before saddling, and I was so sure that Alex would hate brushing the pony's coat and picking his hooves. I was wrong. He actually enjoys cleaning his pony, and so now we go riding weekly.

His first few classes were on a longe line, but last week he rode solo. He basically went through the same exercises I do--walking and trotting around the arena, walking and trotting through a slalom course, riding in circles, etc. He hasn't tried galloping yet and a few other exercises, such as sidestepping.

The pony he rides is black with a thick, fuzzy coat and appropriately named Fussel, which means fluff. I promise to someday post a photo of Alex with Fussel, but right now I'm too nervous that the flash will frighten the pony and he'll throw Alex off.

...the bombs bursting in air,...

This is midnight, New Year's Eve, from our terrace. Note that these are not professional fireworks, but just ordinary Bürger (citizens) unrestrained one night a year. Can't do this on any other night. We tried blowing up fireworks on 4th of July and were reprimanded by our neighbors.

Frohe Weihnachten!!!

Merry Christmas and Happy New Year, and einen guten Rutsch ins Neue Jahr (slide well into the new year)!

Gogol Bordello

I went to see Gogol Bordello at E-Werk, a small, local concert venue here in Erlangen. I started listening to Gogol Bordello after seeing the film Everything is Illuminated, which featured their music and starred Eugene Hütz, the singer of Gogol.

It was my first punk concert in I don't know how many years, and I was definitely out of practice. I had no intention of moshing, but the whole club was one big mosh pit. I had to jump or be jumped on. And I'm too old to jump for an hour and a half. There were a few "seniors," like me, in the group, but most of the people looked college age. Even though I had fun, I was exhausted, so it may be few years before I do punk again.

Back in the Sattel Again

I started riding horses again. Actually, I started riding last spring, but then took the summer off before returning last week. I wasn't too sure I wanted to return.

After my old instructor took his Icelandic horses and left last winter (see earlier post), the stable, conveniently located 5 minutes away by bike, was taken over by a woman who breeds American Paint horses and teaches Western riding. I had hoped that another instructor with Icelanders would take over, because I really enjoyed riding them. Icelandic horses tend to pace more often than trot, which means no bouncing and therefore no posting. Just a smooth, comfortable ride.

I also didn't want to ride Western, because I've always thought that there was no technique involved--just sit in the saddle and pull the reins left or right. But then, I wasn't too crazy about going back to English either. I definitely don't want to jump, and dressage sounds like too much work. But, like I said, the stable is only 5 minutes away, and the return trip home is downhill all the way!

Well, I was wrong about Western. My new instructor has me riding through slalom not only forwards but backwards too, and I have to make the horses sidestep around the entire arena, which is not easy. Her horses are also trained to respond to shifts in weight and changes in leg pressure. To speed up, I need to shift my weight forward, and to slow down, back. To turn right, I need to press the horse's left side with my left calf, and the opposite to turn left. I use the reins only if the horse doesn't respond to my legs. So much for just sitting in the saddle.

Although I'm learning a lot about riding, and I'm learning Deutsch too, because my new instructor speaks very little English, I still miss my old instructor. "Just get on the horse and ride," he would say, and I truly miss that attitude. I also miss his horses, not only because they paced, but because they were a little wild. They were very sweet to humans, but very playful with each other. When they were running together in the arena or in their paddock, they reminded me of a herd of Mustangs, even though Icelanders look nothing like Mustangs. The Paints, in contrast, are very well-behaved.

And, it seems a little ironic to me that I moved to Germany to ride American horses and in the very American Western saddle.

Handball Mom

In the US, we have soccer and hockey moms, and here in Germany, we have handball moms (and dads) too! Alex played in his first tournament; his team, HC Erlangen Tigers, won two games and lost one.

German Elections

Yesterday Germans voted and re-elected Angela Merkel as their chancellor. And when did I learn of this election? In July, when my German teacher mentioned it in class. And when did I learn who was running against her? A few weeks ago, when they debated each other. And when did I learn of the debate? The day after. And when did I learn of the exact date to vote? On Friday, when Alex came home from school and reminded me to vote, which, of course, I cannot do.

Granted, I don't keep up with politics the way I used to, but this time, I missed the entire horse and pony show. That is, if there ever was one.

Croatia and Belgium

We returned to Fazana, Croatia, this summer, and stayed at the same campground, Bi-Village, as last year. As promised, we stayed longer, and it was worth it.



We went kayaking. We rented a pedalboat and went snorkeling. We went swimming in the Adriatic. As I mentioned last year, camping in Europe is nothing like camping at Rock Island State Park, our favorite in the US. Bi-Village has a resort-like atmosphere with restaurants, pools, and sport facilities. The boys even found a video arcade.



Outside of playing at the campground/resort, we did a little touring. We visited the town of Rovinj, up the coast from Pula. It was touristy, but for good reason--it was very charming. The architecture was Venetian, and it was interlaced with narrow, winding streets lined with art galleries and laundry hanging overhead.




We also took a boat trip to the Brijuni Islands, the private residence of Tito for 30 years. We saw the Cadillac that President Eisenhower gave him, and his private safari park, where he collected exotic animals given to him by politicians from all over the world. This cow, I think, was a gift from Indira Ghandi. And long before Tito, the islands had been the private residence of Roman nobility.


When we came home, the boys' Aunt Irene spent a couple of days with us after her business trip to Switzerland. The boys, of course, took her to the BMX track.



And finally, the weekend before the boys returned to school, we drove to Belgium to visit friends. On the way, we stopped in Maastricht, Netherlands. We've visited Maastricht many times before, but rarely ventured beyond the main square. This time we got there early, ate lunch and walked!


In Belgium, the boys played with their friend, Sasha, while we sampled beer in Leuven, the home of Stella Artois. I think, to most Belgians, Stella is what Budweiser (although Stella is stronger with 5.2% alcohol) is to most Americans, but I really like it.

Sommerferien

Summer break began on August 1, and we've been busy ever since. First, Bob's sister with her family came to visit, and we went through our standard sight-seeing repertoire--Nürnberg, Bamberg, Fränkische Schweiz. It was especially nice for the boys, because they had a chance to spend time with their cousins, who they haven't seen in three years.


Then we did some local things, like spending the day with friends at Freizeitland Geiselwind, before our vacation in Denmark.



This time I was prepared for lazy Denmark, much more so than last year. I brought lots of books with me and told myself not to expect anything special. It worked, because I didn't feel bored once. We did many of the same things we did last year, such as visiting the WWII bunkers on Houvig Strand and Legoland, and since we celebrated Alex's 8th birthday in Denmark, he picked out his present at the Legoland store. We also experienced a new ride--Power Builders. You receive a chip card and program what you want the ride to do. Then you're strapped into a huge arm that moves you around. Alex and I kept it simple by programming it to swing us back and forth and tip us onto our backs, but not flip us over like it did Bob and Philip.

The one new thing I did this year was ride a horse, a Norwegian Fjord, along a beach. I've always wanted to ride on a beach. I've ridden over fields, through forests and in deserts, but this was my first beach. Unfortunately, I rode no faster than a trot, because I'm timid about galloping. But next time...


On the way home, we stopped for the night in Stade, on the Elbe River, not far from Hamburg. To get there, we took a ferry across the Elbe. At first, we thought we would have to wait for a long time, because there was a long line of cars. But there were so many ferries loading and unloading that the entire excursion took less than a half hour.



We stayed at Hotel am Fischmarkt right in the center of Stade, and it was perfect. Stade is a very charming, old port city with a plethora of brick Fachwerk buildings. In Bavaria, Fachwerk houses are mainly wood and stucco, so it was so nice to see the brick variation. Thank you Matthias for recommending it!

Now we are getting ready for our trip to Croatia.

Aufgeber (Quitter)

I just handed in the boys' resignation letters from their swimming classes. Letters! I had to write letters letting the swim club they belong to know that they were quitting. Something about writing it down makes me feel like a quitter, and I hate quitting.

In Chicago, I would register the kids for classes for 10 or 12 weeks at a time. At the end of this period, we would decide whether to re-register, or not. It didn't feel like quitting, because we were simply not returning.

Here, most sport programs are run by sport clubs, so one has to join to participate. The clubs usually allow potential new members to take one or more classes for free before making the commitment. (Some programs let you pay as you go, as with my yoga and horseback riding classes--more on this in a future blog.) After joining, dues are paid through a Lastschrift, which means I give the club my bank info and they pull the money out monthly or quarterly. But in order to terminate the Lastschrift, one has to do it in writing, hence the resignation letters.

Note: Our rent and bills are also paid through Lastschriften. In these cases, I love it, because I hated writing out checks.

As for the boys, they're happy to be done with swimming. Philip's next step would have been competitive swimming, but he's not interested in competing. And Alex just wants a break. I'm the only one that feels like a quitter.

Children's Music

This is what my 7 and 11-year-old are listening to these days.