Many, many years ago, I planned a trip to the Cinque Terre which included the boys and Oscar. We were going to stay in Corniglia – I found us a house that allowed dogs – and walk to Monterosso one day and Riomaggiore the second day. For whatever reason, we didn't go to the Cinque Terre that year and since I cannot remember what year, I can't remember where we ended up going.
Thankfully, Bob decided we should go this year and, thus, we planned the trip for early April, thinking it would be less crowded and cooler. We were wrong. It was still crowded and did get warm, but not summer hot. I can only imagine how much more crowded and hotter it is in the summer. We also got lucky because earlier this year, the only trail open between villages was the one from Corniglia to Manarola via Volastra, but just before we left, the Sentiero Azzuro between Monterosso and Vernazza and between Vernazza and Corniglia opened up.
In other words, we hiked four of the five villages. We stayed in Monterosso and the trail to Vernazza was steep but I didn't think it was too difficult, and Vernazza was beautiful to behold from the trail as we hiked in. I can see why it is often considered the loveliest of the villages. The next leg to Corniglia was similar to that to Vernazza but it was afternoon and without shade, it got hot, too hot for me. However, conveniently located halfway between Vernazza and Corniglia is Bar il Gabbiano where we stopped for beer (Bob) and fresh-squeezed orange juice (me). It made the last kilometre or so to Corniglia so much easier.
Corniglia turned out to be my favorite village and not because I had originally planned to stay there. It was just less crowded and felt less touristy. If I return, I think I would like to spend my time here. There's also a great gelato shop, Alberto Gelateria, serving basil ice cream.
The next day we took the train to Corniglia, to the same station that we walked down a googol of steps to the day before. This morning, though, we had to climb that googol of steps and then continue climbing the steep trail to Volastra. On the way, I heard a Red-billed Leiothrix, but did not see it. In Volastra, we stopped for well-deserved drinks, lemon soda and beer, before descending the steep steps and winding through vineyards into Manarola, which like Vernazza was crowded with tourists. Also like Vernazza, it is often considered by some to be the prettiest of the villages. Personally, I thought it looked lovelier from the water than from the trails above. Because the Via dell'Amore to Riomaggiore was closed and the only way to hike there was a short but steep trail, "very, very difficult" according to the woman at the national park office, we rode the train, which took only three minutes. From Riomaggiore, we returned to Monterosso via ferry so that we could see the villages one more time but from the Ligurian Sea.
This trip also included visiting the abbey and beach of San Fruttuoso. Many decades ago, I saw a photo of the abbey and beach and knew I had to visit one day. One day finally came, but I have to admit that I was a bit disappointed. Although the abbey looked just as in the photo, the beach was not as nice. The sand, as at all the beaches in the area, is grey and on this particularly warm Saturday, it was covered with tourists, and maybe locals too. Nonetheless, it was nice to finally see the real San Fruttuoso.
Our trip ended near Lake Garda at Santuario Madonna della Corona. The plan was to hike up the steep pilgrim's trail from Brentino Belluno, but our legs were sore from walking the Cinque Terre, so we cheated and walked down from Spiazzi, an easy ten-minute walk. But, we'll be back when our legs have recovered.
